Time Music Trade Magazine Issue 4 Published November 1998 Dedicated to
Kristen Smith. The first interview was at a Hair Salon that has since closed.
You just told me you were moving?
: Yes, Yeah. I'm probably going to be moving right
here. Not in the very, very near vicinity, but I've been here
10 years and things just aren't working out with my landlord, so I'll
be moving and I'll have a nicer building and I'm still going to have
Hair World and the permanent make-up. There will be two parts
of the business. It's Micro Pigmentation of Maine.
: Could you explain that to our readers?
: Micro Pigmentation is called micro because it is a small
minute needle permeating the first layer of the skin, unlike tattooing,
it is done with 18 rounds. And it is quite a different
procedure. It's not to be confused with tattooing- it is not
tattooing. And so many people get that mixed up, so I just
wanted to clarify that. Tattooing permeates one layer of the
skin and permanent makeup only permeates one layer of skin.
And the permanent makeup is much more safe. We don't
auto-clave the instruments. I used a different needle on
every client. I also require a patch test 72 hours before to
make sure that nobody has an allergic reaction to the permanent
makeup. And the permanent makeup is done on the eye liner,
lip liner and eyebrows because as a woman gets older, she loses the
eyebrow and facial hair, and a lot of her hair, so it looks really,
really nice to have those lines just penciled in and look natural,
unlike an eye pencil. A pencil would look artificial.
: Is that caused from pollution and stress to the nervous
system, the hair loss?
: That's correct. The permanent makeup is also done
for women that are really, really busy, and they just do not have the
time to put on their eye makeup. You can see mine.
It's just penciled so perfect. You would never be able to do
that with an eye pencil, so that's what is nice about it,
too. It's penciled on just nice and fine-lined, and it is
just perfect. You do not have to stretch or age the
skin. You don't have to take the time when you go swimming,
you can just put it on and it is there, and your're good to
go. I love it. You know how regular makeup gets in
the corner of the eye? It just stays right on the eye
liner. You never have to pencil those lines again. It is a
simple, safe, natural-looking procedure and it's a lot lower in cost
than a plastic surgeon. I charge $500 for the top
and bottom eye liner, or the eyebrows, or the lip liner, or $300 for
just the bottom eyeliner. Not everyone wants top and
bottom. See how it's lying across the top of the
lashes? Some women just wear bottom eyeliner. So it
is a lot lower in cost. Plastic surgeons charge
$3,000. So it's really, really nice.
: Plastic surgeons are not cosmetologists, so how could they know what
is right for a lady's face shape and hair style?
: You read my mind exactly. One of my clients , in
fact, went to a plastic surgeon and she wants me to now redo
it. I had done her lip liner and her eyeliner and she had her
brows done by the plastic surgeon and he did a terrible job.
She wants me to fix this, the the State had stopped me from doing it at
the time. There was a lot of controversy and they told me I
had to be a plastic surgeon or an M.D..
: Is that because of lobbyists on the plastic surgeon's
sides? They tried to block it?
Jen : No. Plastic
surgeons didn't fight it. I really, truly think that DHS had
a concern with safety. I wouldn't do anything unless I was
qualified to do it. I've been a cosmetologist now for over 15
years and I've done a lot of trade shows, all the way from New Orleans
to Hawaii. All these plaques - I used to think I needed a
plaque to tell me that I was good. I competed against
competition, against 203 girls and I won first place. So I
know that I know how to apply cosmetics. I was trained in
cosmetic artistry by Sheryl Whitten, who had done Sophia Lauren, and
Cher. So, I really wouldn't do it unless I was
qualified. And that was their concern - making sure that it
was safe and what not, but I've been certified in anything I
do - from body piercing to clipper hair cuts, straight
razor shaves, permanent makeup. Anything that I do I
get extra education in and I'm certified in. Which I feel
that you should do. Unless tattooist. They don't
have to have any formal education whatsoever. They buy a $50
license and hang it up and they can go do it. Now explain
that - I'm confused. They permeate 3 layers of the
skin and I only permeate one layer of the skin so it only lies on the
dermis. Eventually you can make it face it you want to
with three ingredients - saline, glycerin, and
alcohol. You can put it on and it can make it fade.
I'm shining proof if that. My eyebrows were done - I
was a model for the Los Angeles Permanent Cosmetic Institute and my
eyebrows were done, I'm blonde, and they came out brown. I
was like "Oh my God!" I never had any eyebrows at
all. So I faded the heck out of them. So that's a
classic example. It can be lightened it you want it
to. So that's what the state's concern is, I guess.
I don't do anybody unless they are over 18 and of a sound mind and body
- they know that they want to do this. It is not a service
that I push or try to sell. I think that somebody needs to
want this because it is not like a hairstyle that will grow out or
anything. My eyeliner is six years old. It is a
commitment, but for career women who have no time, it takes the tedious
task of applying the daily preparation of makeup. The busy
athletic woman - she's always perspiring, the makeup running way down
her cheeks, and women with limited dexterity or vision, women with
joint problems and things like that, they can't apply their makeup, so
it's great as far as that goes.
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: Probably for musicians on stage? They perspire a lot from
those heavy lights.
: OH yeah, it's really, really good for people in rock - n -
roll bands. They perspire and things like that, so they would
really like it. As far as ease and control. Plus,
they can write it off as an entertainment expense so that is really
nice and they can look naturally beautiful day and night. So
that's really great.
: What's the ingredients used in the actual process? Is it
titanium pigmentation and stuff like that or is it the actual
ingredients that go into the, I don't want to call it ink, but the
: The Pigment, the color, is allergy tested and was approved by the
FDA. It is not an iron oxide. It's different than
the ink they use for tattooing. It's all approved and allergy
tested, so that's really, really nice about it.
: I just asked because I wanted to separate you from the hackers.
: That's really, really good. Absolutely.
I also give people an allergy test.
: Do you sometimes recommend that they see a doctor before they come
and see you? For the sound mind and body thing. If
you're not quite sure if they are of sound mind, if they talk to a
psychologist or something to see if this is what they want to do.
: Well, to tell you the truth, I think that anybody that I find that
would have any likely complications, I decide not to do them, but I've
never had that happen. They really need to be sure of it
and I tell them that. We turned people away. We said
"you really need to know that you want to do this" and "Oh, I'm not
sure about my husband" and this, that and the other thing.
And I've said "Then maybe this isn't the time to do this."
And I've probably lost two or three clients because of that, but you
know, I want them to be sure of it. I don't want to have to
constantly be saying to them "Well this is it." Nobody that
I've done allergy testing to has been allergic to it. They
find that people who have been allergic to tattoos and things
like that are not allergic to this product. So that's
nice. Also, I pencil the lines on with a hydrograph
pencil. It's a medical pencil. So, people know
exactly what they are getting and they coach me and
throughout the whole procedure I say "How does that look to
you? How does that look to you? How does
that look to you?" And we keep sitting up and sitting
up. And some people for the top and bottom eyeliner it takes
40 minutes and for some people it takes two hours. It feels
like tweezers - a little irritating pinch. But it's really,
really nice to think about never having to pencil those lines again,
ever. I love it. I love it. It's the
greatest thing in this industry and it's the greatest thing I've done
for myself. You know how good you feel after an exercise
work-out for your body? That's what I parallel this
to. I feel so good about it. I've had women sit up
from the table or dental chair and they hug me and kiss me.
It's an awesome feeling. It's a neat thing. I've
really found it fulfilling, even more than cutting hair to be honest
: Did you also mention that you also do permanent lip-stick?
: Yeah, permanent lip liner, which prevents the lip stick
from bleeding and stuff. Mine wasn't done. I tried
to do my own but it's hard. I have my eyebrows done and my
eyeliner and eventually I'll have lip liner. I haven't got
around to it, I've just been too busy. I think the lip liner
is great because it also helps women with real thin lip line.
She has a really thin lip line, (pointing to photo that was in
the same magazine issue back in 1998.) it helps the lipstick
bleeding. It helps shape uneven lips, conceal scarring, and
it gives a fuller look if you want a more voluptuous look, because we
do it right on the vermeil line. That's the line connecting
the skin and the lips so it gives the lips a more fuller
look. I've been really ambivalent about doing mine because I
have full lips anyway. You have to really think about
it. I love it. It's just been a great
see. I've covered time, cost, procedure, how the procedure is
done. I do an allergy test, and then it's just implanted
dot...dot...dot - slowly at a time. You walk through it with
the client. So it's just that simple. After about
72 hours, you know, your eyes swell up a little bit; but some people go
out that night. So everyone's different, it's a little tender
for the most part, but it's not like plastic surgery. It's a
very easy, healthy experience, like getting your hair done.
It's worth it.
: I'd like to ask a couple of questions about your hair
salon. Proper diet and healthy hair - is there a connection?
: There is- there really is. A lot of
people don't realize it. Your hair is nourished by your blood
stream The number one reason for hair loss is hereditary, acidic
stomach, which is nerves and diet, and you can change all
that. Those are the three reasons for hair loss. I
did a young lady this week and she was incredibly
underweight. I don't know if it was anorexia or what not, but
she had hair loss of big, big chunks. People don't realize
that diet has a lot to do with healthy hair or not.
: Is that why overweight women have really healthy hair?
: A lot of it is hereditary, truthfully. You have
to eat a good diet to have good hair. Just like good skin and
if you are eating potato chips and everything. Some
dermatologists feel that is an old wives tale. I totally
don't. I'm living proof of that. The body cannot
take too, too much sugar and you need fat to make the brain cells
grow. But like anything - in moderation. Just like
drinking too much might ruin your kidneys. So it does make an
incredible difference- having a good proper diet and sleep. I
know that sounds corny and cliche, but lots of sleep and just overall
healthy, less stress. Stress in a life and lose your
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: Brittle hair too, is that from being sick all the time, like with a
chronic cough every winter, it makes the hair less soft?
: If you use harsh hair colors or you beat the crap-out of
your hair, like blow-drying and curling irons and
stuff like that. Naturally curly hair is actually lacking in
natural oils anyway so you have to do
special things to take special care of it. A lot of people
don't realize that topically what you do to your hair does affect your
hair a lot. I'm not just trying to sell them something, but
it does affect the hair. It makes a significant
difference. Also, if you smoke, it dries up the hair. skin,
and nails. It stunts the growth of the hair.
: What about the use of drugs. What does that do to
: To be honest with you, I'm really not sure.
: It's probably safe to say that crack cocaine does some
damage to your hair.
: Oh Yeah. I'm sure. I can imagine very
well because it does right into your blood stream. It can
slow down or stunt the growth of hair. That a lot of people
would find that funny, it's truly interesting, but if you look at drug
addicts, it affect the hair a lot.
: Does the sun with its vitamin K help the hair a lot too?
: The sun can dry out the hair. It could very well
be a bad thing. It does and it lightens up the hair and the
coloring matter of the hair is found in the middle layer of the hair
shaft, so it's gone through one of the layers of the hair shaft to get
there to lighten it up. So think about it. It makes
sense, doesn't it? It does dry out the hair. A lot
of people don't realize that. they think that it's good for
the skin, hair and nails, but it's really not. I suggest when
you're in the sun to put a conditioner right in your hair.
Yeah, leave it right in your hair, which is what I've done for the past
couple of days. Being in the sun, I just leave the
conditioner right in my hair. It makes a big difference.
: Is there anything else you'd like to add to the interview?
: I think you've got most of it, don't you think?
: What kind of questions were Channels 13, 5 and 8 asking?
: I was on Diane Atwood two years ago, and asked time, cost,
why the state stopped me, what kind of clientele would be interested in
the service, procedure, how it's done. I think we covered
everything. Why would you want to have this done?
But beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. You may find time
is no big deal. Your wife or girlfriend may find it
pleasurable to put on makeup. Some women do. Some
women don't. But everyone is different. Personally,
time is an essence to most people, or time is money. I would
much rather have extra time to do other things like fix my mop
here. You have naturally curly hair top.
: Yup. Everyone I take keeps telling me to cut it.
: This is a conservative time in the world era and they say
guys shouldn't have long hair and so forth. I'm just like if
you got it, you might as well grow it out and have it because I've got
goldy lock hair.
: I know how old are you Doug?
: In like 10 years you won't be able to, so you might as well
do it now, right?
: What makes you say in 10 years I won't be able to?
: Society, as you get older, expects a more conservative look.
: Yeah, I thought you meant my hair is gonna go.
I'm like, Oh My God. But I've got too much. Any you
said blood flow helps the hair grow.
: Yeah, you see that's why with a good scalp massage, your
hair is nourished by your blood stream. So if you give
yourself a good scalp massage, that makes a big difference.
: So the way people rub shampoo through their hair?
: Yeah, I gave him a good scalp massage...that gentleman
earlier. It makes a big difference.
: Now, does that also point to the fact of something like
magnetic therapy massage, or acupuncture, or even chiropractic
treatments can help the blood flow more which can help your hair grow
faster or healthier?
: No. I wouldn't say thast at all. I go
to the chiropractor. But people think those electrode
treatments help the hair grow. I don't know if there's much
truth to that, but I just think good old fashioned, the balls of your
finger tips, stimulating it in a relaxing manner. Those
electrodes almost shock the scalp. I don't know if I would
recommend it. I wouldn't period. We used to use
them in the barber school that I went to and I think it makes people
nervous, it hurts, I had it on my scalp. They put it on and
it was nasty. But they wanted to experience the services that
we sold. Oh my God. it was awful. And
some hair salons still use them. They are are
nasty, It's just like electrolysis, killing the hair by the
root of thenerve. It is disgusting. They give
shocks inside the body and they kill it. You might as well
just use liquid hair removal like waxing. That's so much
better. I do that. I'm a full service
salon. I'm the owner of Hair World Incorporated, which is a
full service beauty and barber shop. I'm a family salon and
I've been around since 1985 and I managed the salon at the mall from
'81 to '85. I worked for Zane for four years. I was
at my own business at the athletic club from '85 to '87 and i've been
here for ten years. I do it all. I know a
lot of musicians have kids. I don't do blush. I
think blush has to be brushed on with brushes. I only do
anything that can be created with a line.
: She's not at all like a hacker. She's got 20
plaques that I'm looking at.
: You can see with me that it's there for the
offering. If you want it and you trust me, do it.
I'm not going to sell you the service. I want you to want
it. If you feel comfortable, do it and if not go pay $3,000
to have a plastic surgeon. I don't want you to hope and pray
that I do a good job - I do do a good job. I'm an award
winning hairstylist from New Orleans to Hawaii, to Las Vegas.
I don't need a plaque to tell me I'm good anymore. See I was
rated one of the highest Redken Ambassadors. It goes premier
embassy and ambassador. Ambassador Salons.
I'm sure you've heard of Redken. It's the number one selling
professional line. That means I have the most anount of
education and professional ethic, professional
standards. I am dedicated to the highest
quality. So that's how I got that. I was honored in
People magazine in 1993 for Redken Ambassador salons. There's
about 2,000 of them, and I was the 3rd one in line. That
means I sold one of the most amount of Redken in the
nation. That was pretty cool. I'm pretty
thrilled with it. That tells you that I am committed to doing
stuff that's good for the industry. I want to be humble, but
I really want people to know that I'm not a hacker. That
blows my mind that there are so many of those shows out there and
people still don't research it. If i was having plastic
surgery, I'd be huntingh them down and making sure that...but
is the end of Jen's interview.
Augusta Maine will miss her Hair World, I'm sure she will be successful
in her next venture.
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Open M-F 9 am - 5 pm Saturdays by Appointment.